by Alli Rainey

Want to see the future of rock climbing? You’re in luck. Just stop by one of Boulder’s indoor rock climbing facilities and chances are you’ll catch a young star in action.
“Many of our junior climbing team members should qualify for the JCCA [Junior Competition Climbing Association] national competition in their age divisions, if not win national titles,” says a confident Justen Sjong, head coach of Boulder Rock Club’s Team Blue Water/Trango.
Indeed, Boulder has more than its fair share of youthful climbing competitors vying for elite national rankings, many of whom train with Sjong’s team. Another junior team is being developed at Colorado Athletic Training School (CATS), with three members planning to compete in a few JCCA events this season.
To accumulate the points necessary to compete in the national event, young climbers will compete from March to July against other youths in up to 10 regional competitions. Kids who qualify will compete at the national event July 7-8 in Oregon. From there, top finishers head to the Youth World Championships in the Netherlands.
While some of Boulder’s junior climbers will surely advance to the world championships, most don’t cite competition as their main motivation for climbing - or being on a team.
“The best thing about the team is it’s just so fun,” says 12-year-old Robby O’Leary. “Before I started climbing, I wasn’t really into any sport. I spent a lot of time just hanging out and not doing much. Now I’m really focused.”
“It gives me the coaching I need. You also make a lot of friends and it’s a good atmosphere,” says 15-year-old Elliott Bates, a member of Team Blue Water/Trango for more than two years. “Climbing has changed me. I have more confidence now. It’s given me a lot more self-esteem.”
Emily Harrington, 13, agrees. “I think climbing and being on a team has helped me with my confidence. I’m a lot more determined than I was before. In fifth grade, when I first started I’d come home and just be kind of laid back. Now I realize I have to work hard for the things I get. Also, I think it’s helped me with school.
”And despite the costs of traveling to competitions, paying for coaching and gym memberships, and keeping their fast-growing children in gear, the parents of these competitive kids see few, if any, negative aspects to their children’s participation in rock climbing.
“I think climbing is wonderful,” comments Karen O’Leary, Robby’s mother. “Even though climbing probably costs double—if not more—than soccer, it’s worth the money. The only negative is my fear of him getting hurt, but I refuse to let that stop him. We talk safety a lot.”
And the benefits? “Emotionally, he deals with negative situations better,” O’Leary says. “That’s the biggest change in him—a real positive emotional maturity. And physically he’s gotten a lot stronger.”
Robby and Team Blue Water/Trango’s 17 other members train twice a week for three hours at Boulder Rock Club. They also take eight chaperoned overnight trips each year to different outdoor climbing destinations around the state, and practice on their own or with private coaches for up to three more training sessions each week. Similarly, members of the developing CATS team put in two practices each week with coaches Peter Beal and Caolan MacMahon.

Upward Bound
Getting a child involved in rock climbing is as simple as phoning one of the local indoor climbing facilities. To join Boulder Rock Club’s recreational team ($60 per month, six-month commitment required), kids first must pass a Youth Certification Program designed to teach safety skills. Members of the more competitive Team Blue Water/Trango ($80 per month, 12-month commitment required) are selected from the recreational team. For information, call Boulder Rock Club at 303-447-2804.
CATS gym’s recreational youth climbing class meets weekly and costs $165 per quarter; the selected team costs $250 per quarter. For information, call 303-939-9699.
“I think it’s one of the best things that could have happened to Emily or any kid who participates,” says Tim Harrington, Emily’s father and a fellow climber. “What I’ve seen in this sport is that the kids push themselves. But the competitors are all friends, and I love that part of it. Climbing has everything you want in a sport, and the kids just seem to love it.” l

Color photo courtesy Team Blue Water/Tango

Visit Bouldermag.com's Sports section for information on climbing and youth sports in Boulder.