Karen's Garden Cafe: Country French Foods with Finesse

By Brenda Niemand

A gentle transformation has occurred at the charming turn-of-the-century house Boulderites knew for 27 years as Nancy’s Restaurant. In the newly opened Karen’s Garden Café, butter-yellow paint has replaced the Victorian wallpaper, swags of bright fabrics accent windows, vibrant art adorns walls, new sconces light rooms, and there’s fresh carpeting throughout. But the familiar handsome woodwork remains a strong design element in the redecorated restaurant at 825 Walnut St. The new decor creates a sunny, south-of-France ambiance that meshes with the new country French menu.

The path to this happy result was, however, anything but straight. Buddy Chick and his wife, Amy, who own Karen’s Country Kitchen in downtown Louisville, had been eyeing this location for some time. “I’ve always been attracted to it because of its look, and the house and garden area, and felt it would be a good match for us.” Karen’s Country Kitchen is famed for its breakfasts, so when Dot’s left west Pearl Street and then Nancy’s closed, the timing seemed especially promising for a good breakfast spot in that part of town, and the Chicks leased the building.

Initially, their idea was to replicate the Louisville restaurant in a somewhat more upscale form, with a smaller, less “diner” type menu. Breakfast and lunch would be the mainstays, with dinner a bonus.

Yet, Buddy wanted to spread his wings a bit. When he bought the successful Karen’s Country Kitchen four years ago, his main goal was “don’t screw it up.” With a 25-year career in restaurant and hotel management, Buddy itched to use more of his expertise and skills. Amy, too, has a food and beverage background so the pair was well equipped to create a completely different concept. Which is what they did.
The country French theme was born when two coincidences dovetailed. Buddy’s brother and sister-in-law (also partners in the new restaurant) spent a month in France last summer and brought back a small painting of chicks for Amy, who collects chickens. Its fresh, country French feel seemed right at home in the freshly painted rooms. Irresistibly, the couple began leaning toward a country French dinner menu. Then, while interviewing chefs, Joel Holland appeared. His résumé includes Wolfgang Puck’s Las Vegas restaurants Spago and Chinois, but when he gave the Chicks a sample menu from his last job at a bistro in Jackson Hole, Buddy said, “This is it! This is exactly what we want to do.”
Viva La France!
Karen’s Garden Café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner weekdays, with breakfast and dinner on Saturday and breakfast only on Sunday. In addition, the restaurant offers cafe seating in the bar and on the enclosed front porch for patrons wanting a quick espresso and a pastry baked at Karen’s Country Kitchen.
A glimpse at the menu suggests the flavor of Karen’s Garden Café. Breakfast offerings include pancakes and bacon and eggs, of course, but also a frittata with ham, potato, tomato, basil, Parmesan and toast. Lunch specialties include an arugula salad with dates, Manchego cheese, apples and walnuts in a walnut vinaigrette; and a duck confit and butternut squash risotto with Parmesan. Dinner might begin with black mussels steamed in Pernod, parsley, butter and garlic; or French onion soup gratinée. Among entrees are a classic coq au vin, and roasted sea bass with eggplant, chorizo and calamata olives. The caramelized lemon tart finishes any meal with zest. Samples from the bar menu are panini with Parma ham, Fontina, tomato and basil, served with a green salad; cheeseburger with fries; and baby green salad with pistachio-crusted goat cheese. The restaurant also offers a full bar and a selection of wines.
The second-floor dining room, which accommodates an additional 30 to 40 diners, is designed primarily for private parties but also is available for overflow on days when the outdoor patio is unusable. The Chicks removed a wall to open up the interior space, and glazed French doors now access a small balcony with new decking, three tables and a dynamite Flatirons view.
Come spring, Amy will spruce up the flower garden and Buddy is already thinking about how to “work” the south-facing patio, which in addition to being one of Boulder’s favorite outdoor dining spaces has great possibilities for weddings and banquets. Opening a new restaurant is serious business, but the Chicks are in their element. “This is really where our abilities lie,” says Buddy of the new venture. “This has been a lot of fun for us.”

Karen’s Garden Café is at 825 Walnut St. The phone number is 303-449-8402.

See Karen's Garden Cafe listing in the bouldermag.com DIning Guide.